Paul Smith AW16 Collection
24 August 2016
Paul Smith AW16 Collection
Past and present converge in the new Paul Smith collections for autumn/winter ’16, as Paul explores his design signatures of stripe, print and tailoring.
After a process of refinement and simplification, Paul Smith will now offer two collections from AW16 onward: Paul Smith and the new second line, PS by Paul Smith.
As the premier collection, Paul Smith will continue to offer catwalk clothing and signature tailoring for men and women with Paul’s handwritten signature logo providing his personal stamp of approval.
Paul Smith Men’s
As with every winter collection outerwear is the focus; the best-selling Epsom coat is styled with layers of classic tailoring, colourful knitwear or printed shirts. 1970s influences are felt with peak lapels on coats and some suiting, plus subtle flares at the ankle on some formal trouser shapes.
Paul’s longstanding passion for cycling informs the colour palette, where contrasting shades of peach and bright green form unique stripes. A series of warm Merino wool knits are very reminiscent of the vividly coloured knitted jerseys worn by the heroes of the sport.
Elsewhere, dinosaur prints and knitted jacquards peep from beneath the layers, while digitally printed peaches on jackets and shirts reference Paul’s pioneering use of photoprinting techniques in the early days of his career.
Embracing the free spirit of the late-60s and early-70s, colourful charms are added to loafers and belts – they’re even used as the buttons on a classic white shirt.
In the bag department, a unique print is added to a timeless menswear accessory: the Paul Smith Folio has been taken back to the Jurassic period with the repeating dinosaur pint.
Moving to the women’s collection, the same re-examination of classic Paul Smith designs are the order of the day.
Paul Smith womenswear celebrates the idea of the handsome woman, inspired by the wardrobe of Paul’s wife Pauline Denyer Smith. By creating elegant, feminine versions of Paul Smith menswear pieces, the women’s collection is rich in unexpected detail and intricate decoration.
Paul Smith Women’s
Kitsch eaten-apple motifs pay homage to a classic Paul Smith photo-print from 1982. The apple appears as prints, embroidery and appliqué in various scales across the season. This is complemented by a psychedelic floral and a deconstructed paisley, which make up the core prints for this season.
Formal coats are given raglan sleeves for a rounded shoulder and strong silhouette. Classic shift dresses are updated with bold colour and embroidery, while maintaining a tailored structure. Finally, tailoring weaves in a signature Paul Smith stripe to add an elegant, feminine detail.
When it comes to leather goods, two of the new additions from last season return with new life.
Further exploring the use of appliqué, the Concertina bag is decorated with floral patches – echoed on scarves and other accessories. Next, No. 9 leather goods return with new colours and finishes, once more reinterpreting the cast-iron facade of the flagship Paul Smith shop on Albemarle Street, next door to The Royal Arcade accessories store.
16, The Royal Arcade
Tel: 0203 205 1135
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