Paul Smith A/W 2020
23 January 2020
Paul Smith A/W 2020
For his autumn/winter ’20 collection, Paul Smith reflects on fifty years of creativity while looking forward with blue-sky positivity.
Having established a reputation for reinventing classics, Paul Smith refreshes wardrobe archetypes for this landmark fiftieth anniversary collection, creating a series of archetypal pieces that will sit proudly in any wardrobe for another fifty years.
Tailored garments remain at the centre of the collection but with an ease and looseness that’s at the heart of Paul Smith. A clean and lean silhouette nods to the 1970s with added length, high-breaks and a modern, minimal feel.
Fabric and detailing are once more a focus. Classic double-breasted Melton overcoats are finished with contrast topstitching and raw edges. Check and houndstooth tailoring is cut from cloths that are British in style but with the fluidity and lightness of Italian fabrics.
Prints from Paul’s past are revisited, reinterpreted and celebrated for this special anniversary collection.
On an early trip to Tokyo, a wax plate of spaghetti from a fake food shop found its way into a photographic print. The spaghetti print is reconsidered for autumn/winter ’20, scaled-up, re-coloured and woven in textural wool jumpers and printed on floor-length down-filled jackets.
Another archive print from the 1980s was inspired by a mishap with a faulty fax machine. Now this warped Paul Smith logo is reproduced on shirts and jersey pieces, with the print taking on a newfound irreverence in 2020 set against the ever-growing prominence of logomania.
Natural tones fill the colour palette; teal, terracotta and clay all compliment a bright shade of sky blue, which brings some much-needed positivity. Heavy jumbo corduroy, in the key colour of sky blue, injects cloud-like bounce into the collection. On a similar theme, proportions are exaggerated in puffer jackets and trainers to create an air of dreamlike fantasy.
Denim – a regular feature of many Paul Smith catwalk collections – appears raw and traditional or overdyed and modern with a unique floral camouflage pattern. Thick shearling coats nod to Paul’s dandyish pals wearing their Grandmas’ fur coats in the 1970s.
Thirty years ago, Paul Smith womenswear was created to meet the demand for reinterpreted menswear staples. For autumn/winter ’20 this theme continues, with the womenswear taking strong influence from the men’s.
This landmark show in Paul’s career ended with a moving montage of show finales from across the decades. As Paul took his bow and waved goodbye, he was still only looking in one direction: with five decades of design behind him there is still much more ahead.
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